1000days, 100000k’s

Ridgecrest is a town that primarily exists for the purpose of supporting the extensive Air Force base community on its doorstep. Anyway, we needed a tyre repair as it would seem that we can drive off-road over all sorts of nasty shale and rocks and the only two punctures we have received all trip have been from nails!!!! I’d plugged it myself but thought a professional repair may help the tyre reach the end of its serviceable life without further attention.

Getting our tyre repaired in Ridgecrest

Getting our tyre repaired in Ridgecrest

The guy who owned this tyre should've stopped sooner - speed may have been a factor??

The guy who owned this tyre should’ve stopped sooner – speed may have been a factor??

After a resupply, we headed for the ghost town of Randsburg that we had heard was worthy of a visit but they clearly weren’t in any need of an economic boost as all the tourist related businesses were closed!

Randsburg all closed for business today but interesting to look at

Randsburg all closed for business today but interesting to look at

More Randsburg

More Randsburg

Speed definitely a factor!!!

Speed definitely a factor!!!

South of Barstow, we camped in a BLM campsite named Sawtooth Canyon. Not surprisingly, this is a favourite with climbers due to the amazing granite rock formations all over the site.

Have to love the BLM!

Have to love the BLM!

Sawtooth Canyon Camp

Sawtooth Canyon Camp

We ended up staying around 5 nights and it was just lovely although a weekend falling within the duration of our stay did have the unfortunate side effect of filling every campsite with some sort of temporary home.

Lovely skies

Lovely skies

We’d noticed a large 5th wheel upon our arrival and at one stage I thought I heard the unmistakable twang of an Australian accent! Turned out that it was some little West Aussie Battlers, proving I do listen contrary to Jennifer’s observations…

Now residents of the US, Amber and her parents Gloria and Ted (originally from Perth) husband Charlie (the outsider in this group being a born and bred American) and their children Piper and Peyton, decided much to the confused reactions of family and friends that they would all head off and wander the USA for a couple of years in an RV together! What better way to see the sights of this large land than via a long-term road trip! Full points to them and they were a wonderful bunch to hang out with!!!

From left to right - Amber, PIper, Charlie, Peyton, Gloria and Ted

From left to right – Amber, PIper, Charlie, Peyton, Gloria and Ted

Over the weekend, a little extra excitement was had by one unfortunate visitor thanks to rather gusty conditions. It made for a rather expensive day out …

Expensive day out for this guy...

Expensive day out for this guy…

Given my comments on generators in various posts, and their ability to remove any sense of tranquility, I urge you to read on!

Sawtooth Canyon boasts a nice large sign at the entrance stating the rules and regulations including QUIET time between 10pm and 8am. Obviously the nearby couple in a mid size camper van must have been illiterate!

Yep you can see it coming can’t you!

They started their generator at 5am (I know because that’s when it woke me). The subsequent brain aneurism that Jen appeared to suffer resulted in her rapidly getting up and heading off into the darkness toward the now very brightly lit RV from whence the noise was emanating! The next thing I heard was a dog barking before the pleasant sound of nothing as the generator was quickly killed! Ahhh she really is a tyrant!

Jen, after knocking on their door, was greeted with startled looks before she graciously pointed out that campsite QUIET time certainly stretches past 5am and right through to 8am! As it turned out, she was even more effective than I could have imagined, for not 20 minutes later the vehicle came to life and they promptly departed. We watched their taillights reducing in size as they followed the track out and we were really disappointed to see them leave… Hahaha

Just north of Barstow

Just north of Barstow

We visited Barstow again and travelled a bit more of historic “Route 66” through town before making our way further east into the Mojave desert in order to travel the historic Mojave Trail. Enroute is a military storage facility in which is parked acre after acre of military Humvee’s and various other armored equipment, row after row. Many had flat tyres and doors left wide-open suggesting its all surplus and in case of global emergency only I guess!

Barstow

Barstow

Military Surplus

Military Surplus

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Humvees to the horizon...

Humvees to the horizon…

As we pulled up alongside the security fence for a photo opportunity, passers by slowed and stared, scrutinising us as they assumed the weird vehicle and it’s camera-toting occupants must be up to no good! No doubt the dry and arid atmosphere supplies the perfect location for storing equipment long term as corrosion is reduced considerably.

Originally a Mohave Indian Trading Route, it subsequently became a military wagon trail to provide supplies to Fort Mojave on the Colorado River before being replaced by a railroad in 1883. The Mojave Trail today, is generally traversed by 4×4 enthusiasts looking for a more challenging and alternate entry point into Mojave National Preserve. It was a great way to experience a bit of history whilst enjoying more of our favourite dark night skies and even some Desert Big Horn Sheep.

Desert Big Horn Sheep

Desert Big Horn Sheep

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The Mojave Road

The Mojave Road

Mojave Road Guestbook and Shrine

Mojave Road Guestbook and Shrine

I’ve noticed that during our time in the US traversing some of the more famous 4×4 trails, US perceptions of remote travel are vastly different from those in Australia. You certainly can get yourself into trouble and need to be prepared out in these areas, but rarely have we been in a situation where we would not encounter another vehicle within a few days or require extended fuel range for that matter.

For example, much of the Mojave Trail is just within view of the Interstate! I do not wish to detract from these journeys, as they are really outstanding, and offer varied and lovely scenery with challenging driving – it’s just the higher population density I suppose!

The interstate is just visible in the background whilst we are driving Soda Lake on the Mojave Road

The interstate is just visible in the background whilst we are driving Soda Lake on the Mojave Road

Mojave National Preserve provided an amazing variation of scenery within its desert terrain – ancient volcanic lava fields, Joshua Tree forests, stunning granite boulders and trails for both hiking and 4wding.

Inside Lava Tubes in Mojave NP

Inside Lava Tubes in Mojave NP

Mojave Vista

Mojave Vista

Wildcamping in Mojave

Wildcamping in Mojave

Appropriately named "Ringloops" trail

Appropriately named “Ringloops” trail

We found a 4wd only trail in the east of the park called the Macedonia Canyon Trail and it was a lovely drive. However the maps failed to advise that where the western end of the trail exits back onto the main road again involves passing under a railway line with a car no bigger than a Corolla!!!! We had to drive about 5kms north on an extremely sandy, overgrown track until we finally found a spot with just enough clearance.

Macedonia Canyon Trail

Macedonia Canyon Trail

I don't know how many 4WD's could make it under this exit?

I don’t know how many 4WD’s could make it under this exit?

This is the main exit!!! Never going to make it!

This is the main exit!!! Never going to make it!

So we keep looking for a way out

So we keep looking for a way out

Finally!!!

Finally!!!

It was in the south of Mojave NP whilst camped amongst these wonderful granite boulder formations, that the wind decided to interrupt us as it came in with vengeance. I’d heard on the radio that there was a severe wind warning in effect for the area and they were certainly accurate!!!

Our lovely granite boulder camp before the wind!

Our lovely granite boulder camp before the wind!

Quite late in the evening, the winds slowly increased in ferocity and although our camper is able to withstand such gusts (and has done so previously), we elected, for the first time in our whole journey, to retract the camper roof and enjoy a less appealing sleeping position, safe in the knowledge that no damage could be sustained should the situation deteriorate any further.  A brief step outside proved that the camper had indeed belied the true severity of the situation, as I could barely stand upright into the wind!!!

Fortunately we are able to sleep in our little camper with the roof down although being rather short is an advantage!

New sleeping arrangements

New sleeping arrangements

Enroute to Joshua Tree National Park via Amboy and we were once again traversing an old section of Route 66 and relics of a bygone era. To the south and in light of the previous nights experience with the wind, we sought to find a sheltered camp and hit the jackpot! Lovely granite once again but obviously another popular area for target practice as you couldn’t walk more than a step in any direction without spotting used shells and damaged projectiles!

Amboy on Old Route 66 - now pretty much abandoned

Amboy on Old Route 66 – now pretty much abandoned

Nearby Amboy Crater and Lava Field

Nearby Amboy Crater and Lava Field

Our Protected Camp - Blissfully still!

Our Protected Camp – Blissfully still!

When do you ever find a campsite like this???

When do you ever find a campsite like this???

Clearly a favourite spot for target practice - a 10 minute walk found all this

Clearly a favourite spot for target practice – a 10 minute walk found all this

The whole area north and east of Palm Springs and around the town of 29 Palms is a bit weird I’d have to say. Completely dilapidated with the most popular form of housing sitting atop decayed tyres and decorated in a style only achievable by doing nothing to your trailer home for 30 years other than live in it and throw your rubbish out the door!

Got to minus 6 degrees C

Got to -6C overnight!

The northwestern portion of Joshua Tree NP is by far the stand out with superb vistas of the namesake Joshua Trees amongst stunning granite formations. Further in, the Cholla Cactus Garden was also a worthy stop.

Joshua Tree National Park

Joshua Tree National Park

Cholla Cactus Garden

Cholla Cactus Garden

Also known as Teddy Bear Cactus because they look so cuddly from a distance!

Also known as Teddy Bear Cactus because they look so cuddly from a distance!

Ocotillo Cactus

Ocotillo Cactus

Just south of Joshua Tree, we camped once again with our nomadic friends, Laurie and Ron, and enjoyed Christmas Lunch this time! Seems we’ve been able to time our interludes quite nicely to appropriately line up with celebrations that include Laurie preparing some form of fabulous meal for us to enjoy whilst Ron and I relax with a few ales! At this rate I’ll only need the fridge to keep the beer cold!

Merry Christmas!

Merry Christmas!

Back with Laurie, Ron and Jeff

Back with Laurie, Ron and Jeff

It also became apparent that we had more in common with these guys than would seem statistically possible!

One night whilst enjoying a few beverages, Laurie and Ron were showing us some pictures of Ron’s Cabin in the Yukon and one view of the area looked remarkably familiar! Some comparing of maps and photos revealed that we had in fact camped less than 500mtrs from Ron’s Yukon home!

The statistical anomaly came into play when we realised that the Yukon has a population of approx. 35,000 people of which some 30,000+ live in the territory capital of Whitehorse and other regional towns leaving barely a few thousand people to inhabit the remaining 536,000 square kms that is the Yukon Territory. That we would then meet Laurie and Ron in a country with a population of 330 million people and even then cross paths with them in a remote part of the Nevada Desert just seemed staggering to both us and them! In fact we camped at the exact spot that Laurie had camped when she first met Ron…

Yukon River Camp

Yukon River Camp – Ron’s place is just in those trees beyond

Whilst here and with the weather quite dreary, Jen and Laurie headed into Palm Springs for a day of shopping, leaving the men folk to relish in their absence, and enjoyable it most definitely was!

Desert Training Camp

We were camped at one of General Patton’s Desert Training Camps for WWII

It was very late in the day before they returned in possession of a brand new Dodge Ram!! Seems Laurie does take her shopping quite seriously! After we all stood there with mouths ajar for a spell contemplating the depth of the days purchases, it became apparent it was all a rouse with the intention of giving Ron a heart attack!

In fact, the truth of the matter was that they had driven Laurie’s Chevy the whole 50km into town that morning in limp mode. Upon departure, the Chevy’s computer had spat out a fault code that rendered the vehicle unable to achieve speeds above 40km/h on the Interstate where the limit of 120km/h is seen more as a minimum! After leaving it at a dealership for repairs they decided to have a bit of a laugh at Ron’s expense with the hire car… Poor bastard!

Happy endings however, as they returned the following day and retrieved the now repaired Chevy. The downside of course was the lighter load in Laurie’s wallet after the bill was paid!

Look at the size of these things!

Look at the size of these things! We are heading to the snowbird nest!

On the move again, we made for Quartzsite. This odd little town deserves a special mention! Grey Nomads in Australia are known as Snowbirds here! Well if you’re a Snowbird, it seems that this is where you will ALL be nesting during the winter months.

Acres and acres of RV’s occupied and for sale! The amount of money parked around this town is absolutely staggering. There are 4 areas known as LTVA’s (long term visitor areas), where for a small fee ($US180 so we’ve been told) you can park for up to 6 months in the desert just outside Quartzsite with services such as rubbish collection, water and sanitary dump points, making it the true nomad Mecca!

Motorhome and RV Mecca

Motorhome and RV Mecca

We had no chance capturing it with our camera as it really is a vast sea of RV’s in every direction.

The LTVA south of Quartzsite

The LTVA south of Quartzsite

They even have shuttle buses to transport the Snowbirds into town for events organised solely for the greying fraternity. From dances and shows, book signings, restaurant deals, expos and flea markets, along with RV repair shops and dealers the list goes on and on. Not to mention a strange little bookstore…

Cool Stuff in Quartzsite! Everything is for sale

Cool Stuff in Quartzsite! Everything is for sale

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Bought Vintage Snow Shoes Here...

Bought Vintage Snow Shoes Here…

One owner-always loved???

One owner-always loved???

A notorious local who owns the bookstore...

A notorious local who owns the bookstore…

There is also quite a lot of BLM land available in the area which allows up to 14 days free camping and gives travellers preferring the wide open spaces a little more choice over the fairly high density camping nearer the town.  No prize for guessing where we headed…

Saguaro Giant Cactus

Saguaro Giant Cactus

New Year arrived quite suddenly for us, as it seems calendars and even the date for that matter have lost more and more relevance the longer we’ve been travelling!

With the end of 2016 upon us, we thought we’d try and make midnight rather than end up in bed by 10pm and thanks to a little internet compliments of Ronald McDonald, we achieved that end after making a slight detour and found ourselves dribbling into the early hours of 2017 in the comfort of the 5th wheel with Laurie and Ron once again.

New Years and what do you know - back with Laurie, Ron and Jeff!

New Years and what do you know – back with Laurie, Ron and Jeff!

I think these guys are stalking us to be honest or maybe it’s the other way around?

KofA (King of Arizona) National Wildlife Refuge proved to be perfectly in sync with the way we love to travel – excellent 4×4 tracks amongst sensational scenery. Although we’d spotted the odd Saguaro cactus as we’d moved back toward Arizona this was our first taste of these terrific cactus in large numbers and we found them truly amazing and wonderful to camp amongst.

Kofa National Wildlife Refuge

Kofa National Wildlife Refuge

Trails in Kofa

Trails in Kofa

Spiky little things!

Spiky little things!

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With a multitude of cactus varieties in the area growing amongst the desert varnished rocks and ridges, the whole reserve has quite a unique persona.

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No hunting now that you are leaving the refuge???

No hunting now that you are leaving the refuge???

The area had also been a testing range for WW2 ordinance and signs recommending caution when out wandering were there for good reason!

Live rounds...

Live rounds…

Enroute to our border crossing into Mexico, we passed through Yuma Proving Ground where all manner of armament is tried and thoroughly tested!

Yuma Proving Grounds Display

Yuma Proving Grounds Display

Migs on sticks - choppers on sticks - same, same

After a restock in the town of Yuma, where we sat in the car outside a Starbucks for what seemed like hours sucking free WIFI, we spent our last night in the US camped on Sidewinder road, only made auspicious in our minds by the fact that our trip counter had just clocked 1000days of travel and coincidentally 100,000km as well since departing Vladivostok!

100,000kms on the trip!

100,000kms on the trip!

1000 days travelling

1000 days travelling

Just arbitrary numbers I guess but it held some value for us!

Sidewinder Rd Camp - Mexico tomorrow...

Sidewinder Rd Camp – Mexico tomorrow…

Mexico was beckoning us to become sunburnt beach bums so Baja here we come!!

Justin.

 

4 thoughts on “1000days, 100000k’s

  1. Bec

    Yaaaaawwwwwwnnnnnnnn!!! Been up since 5am myself …. oh if only I could knock on someone else’s door and tell them to buzz off. Sheeeeessshhh Such a shame you couldn’t sleep in until 8…. your routine holiday hours are going to mean you will never be able to return home for fear of hearing the neighbours going to work every day or god forbid the uni students 2 streets away all night party and Black Sabbath jam session till 8am in the morning every weekend… or is that just something my neighbourhood has to endure??? In any event returning to life is going to be a real kick up the pants for you two.
    So in protest to your dry monologue of finding tranquility in the form of campsites without people I gave up reading and just looked at the pictures which I then stopped looking at too as they were all just cactuses!!!! Yaaaawwwwnnn (that was a bored yawn versus my first tired yawn) I didn’t know you guys had been moonlighting as horticulturalists but I guess during dry spells of dull road journeys you have to do something.
    Let’s hope Mexico provides more than just cactuses and less whinging poms wanting the world to beat to their drum. Yes you aren’t English but I have cancelled your Australian citizenship until you grow some kangaroo balls and be more creative in your approach to diplomatically diffusing foreign conflict. A true Aussie would not have knocked on the door of the offending vehicle to politely ask them to obey park rules but instead found a way to cut the generators power forever never to be used again!! Until next time… Adios xxx

    Ps Jen in Mexico could you possibly stop off at the local markets and purchase yourself some alternate footwear – as those flamin’ crocs are offending my optic nerves to the point that I will go blind if I ever see them again.

    Reply
  2. Laurie the Cat Lady and Yukon Ron

    Paul Weiner (yes, that’s his real name), owner of the Quartzsite Bookstore looks a little prickly but I doubt that’s a cactus in his cod piece. And I think Jen did a fine and very polite job of telling the offending generator occupants to buzz off. She did much better than me the time I got a little irritated and wearing a long dress with my .38 strapped on my belt, went over to a camper and threatened to shoot her dog if she let it loose on my cats one more time. But then hey, Jen is Australian and I’m American so we can forgive her for her polite decorum. And, yes, the offending lady with no regard for the safety of my cats left too. But I totally understand the frustration. I have enough solar I don’t even own a generator and I hate close neighbors with generators and dogs. I’m always amazed when someone pulls into an area where there is no one around for miles (OK, kilometers for the rest of you) and they park literally next door to me. Invariably, with a dog. I was a campground host for many summers, and if Jen and Justin had been Americans, they could have just threatened to shoot the generator. I had it happen once! Seriously. The generator owner came to me and said his neighbor threatened to shoot his generator unless he turned it off so I had to do something (to cover my butt in case things got out of hand). So, I called our law enforcement officer and we had a back and forth conversation clarifying that the offender “only” threatened to shoot the generator, not the occupants. I told them, “yes”, only the generator, several times at which point, they did not see the need to respond as they were busy running traffic checks and no “body” had been threatened. haha, true story!! Yes, Jen and Justin may have trouble adjusting back to “civilized” life (whatever that is……I’ve been on the road since 2002 so I think this life is perfectly normal) but I’ll wager a bet that after traveling like this, they wont stay in what most people consider “civilized” mainstream way of life too long. It will just be too stifling after the freedom of the road! For me, “home is where you park it”. Cheers you two and hope we see you again soon. XOXO, Laurie, Ron, Maggie and Granite

    Reply

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